Finally, I visited the shrine that had occupied my imagination ever since I learnt about Ramana Maharshi from Chittaranjan Naik, noted Advaitic scholar and well known IT professional, many years back.
It was the flowing account of the treasure trove "Self Realization - the life and teachings of Sri Ramana Maharshi" by B V Narasimha Swami, noted lawyer and scholar of yore, that took me to the Arunachala Hill in Tiruvannamalai.
Two rare books on Kavya Kantha Ganapati Muni, Maharshi's ardent disciple and illustrious Sanskrit scholar, offered priceless insights into the life and times of the great Maharshi. Ever since, every successive visit to Tiruvannamalai throws light on a new facet of Maharshi's life shared with us by his ardent disciplines including Ganapati Muni, Arthur Osborne, Major Chadwick and a few others.
I had a deep desire to visit Sri Ramana Mandiram, Madurai, the place where Sri Ramana had his first experience of the Self but something or the other made the dream distant for long.
It was surely not a coincidence that this long-pending visit happened just at the time I took to reading Oxford scholar, towering thinker, and prolific writer Arthur Osborne's profound work "For Those With Little Dust", easily one of the best books on the Maharshi's life and work.
Midway through Osborne's incisive notes, editorials, and poems, I don't know how and why I had the sudden urge to visit Sri Ramana Mandiram, Madurai, the place where Sri Ramana had his first experience of the Self. So, I set about the mission and was blessed with many priceless moments of silent contemplation. Needless to say, the proximity of my new abode in Bengaluru proved a key trigger in expediting the visit. That the lane where I stay in Bengaluru is called "Osborne Road" lent more conviction emanating from a sweet coincidence!
With no sign boards in place to guide first-timers, the search was far from optimal but indeed befitting the nature of my quest. The place is located in a shabby by-lane near the South gate of the famous Meenakshi Amman temple. The photographs tell the whole story on the outside.
I deliberatly skipped clicking snaps of the Mandiram shirne, as also the room upstairs where 17-year old Ramana had a spiritual experience that paved the way for his unique self-enquiry, taking him to Mt. Arunachala, his majestic abode for the rest of his life. A snap can never convey the feel of the place which can only be experienced first-hand. One encounters the same bliss that the Ashram Hall in Tiruvannamalai provides, but without the din of the crowds that throng the latter.
Madurai is home to what should ideally be revered as one of India's most cherished landmarks. Sadly, this magical town with a glorious history has itself forgotten Ramana, so one can't expect much from the rest of the country.
Ditto for Tiruvannamalai where the scene outside the ashram leaves much to be desired. Fancy commercial outlets have made a divine mess of the place with all kinds of Maharshi merchandise displayed from wherever possible.
To make matters worse, rash drivers of buses, taxis and rickshaws seem all set to ride over you at any moment of the day. Now, we don't expect people at such places to be blessed with halos of enlightenment round their heads but why should even the basic civic sense be amiss is truly baffling.
Clearly a tragedy for two towns sanctified by the great Maharshi years ago. He traveled all the way from Madurai to reach Tiruvannamalai before he set foot on the Arunachala Hill. In fact, he had to make a long detour. Unaware of the Villupuram - Tiruvannamalai - Katpadi branch railway line opened in 1892, he went by the Madurai - Egmore track on August 29, 1896 which showed Tindivanam as the nearest point to reach Tiruvannamalai. Thanks to a co-passenger's prompt advice, a Moulavi who was eager to help the 'young tapasvi', he alighted at Villupuram and after much hardship, bought a ticket to Mambalapattu. From Mambalapattu, he walked all the way to Kilur, yet twenty miles away from the destination. Here, he pledged his earrings to secure a railway ticket to Tiruvannamalai and finally arrived here on the historic day of September 1, 1896, and never left the place ever again!
Today, the glorifed word called 'development' has made travel dramatically easier but the comfort and convenience only help us reach. We don't seem to arrive!